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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Newcastle Upon- Tyne
    Posts
    154

    Default overheating problem

    Hello!

    I have a smart fortwo, the problem i am having is that the engine temperature is going through the roof on the gauge. it has happened 3 times in 3 months. the first time, the dash started flashing and beeping and the temp was at it's highest with all blobs filled. I left it for an hour and came back and everything was fine.
    The same thing happened last month, the temperature rose so that there was one black dot that wasn't black and then went down to only 40(2 black dots).
    On Saturday, the same thing happened, 4 black dots and the fans inside the car went cold even when it was originally hot. On this occassion i left it, and then came back and everything was ok again.
    On all three occassions, the car has been subject to rain. On saturday though, it was a jet wash.
    I took it to smart today, and they say i have to have the engine head removed and engine inspected(a couple of hundred pounds before anything is replaced)
    I have a remap from jonboy. Smart reckon it has something to do with that. i believe that it is an electrical fault.
    Could someone help me with this please, as i dont know what to do.
    Thankyou!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Earl Shilton, Leicestershire
    Posts
    2,609

    Default

    Hello and Welcome It sounds almost like a problem with the thermostat, or the cooling system has an air-lock.

    "elle est belle, votre petite auto Monsieur"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    over here
    Posts
    9,885

    Default

    you've got an airlock in the engine block by the sounds of it


    there is a recent thread(s) on the subject
    smartypartfast.co.uk
    fq101.co.uk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Wallington, Surrey
    Posts
    1,169

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheAlmostInvisibleMan
    you've got an airlock in the engine block by the sounds of it


    there is a recent thread(s) on the subject
    Wot he said.

    It will have nowt to do with the remap.
    DO NOT BELIEVE THEM IF THEY TRY THAT ONE!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Maidstone, Kent
    Posts
    672

    Default

    Any sign of thick white smoke from the exhaust? Yo-yo did this once a couple of years ago. Cloud of white smoke from the exhaust - then overheated. Oil cap had blown off - had put too much oil in . Called out the RAC who topped up the coolant and then followed us home - but nothing untoward happened and that was an end to the matter.

    How old is your smart? Potentially the remap could cause the engine to overheat but given that Jonboy knows what he is doing (did Yo-yo) I would be surprised if the remap is to blame.

    Bear in mind that any main dealer service department will jump on anything non-standard so you want to be careful - perhaps a second opinion would be worthwhile from elsewhere... if you catch my drift...

    J
    James and Paula
    Yellow/Black/Silver Mk2 Passion
    and "the biz" - Wotsit, Uhu, Dinky, Sunny, Dyson & Crunchie Ferret



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Newcastle Upon- Tyne
    Posts
    154

    Default what is an airlock

    what do i need to do to fix this?
    how much will it cost?
    will it fix itself?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    over here
    Posts
    9,885

    Default

    it's down to the design of the system

    there are low pipes that feed the engine coolant back and forth to and from the egnine and rad. (the rad is at the front of car - the engine is at back)

    This arrangement can easily allow a collumn of air to be trapped within the block.

    This can kill your engine if not sorted ASAP as hot spots will occur where there is not coolant possibly causing leaking, loss of comp and warping

    Take a look round for recent threads on the issue

    If it's under warranty - take it back for them to do

    If you look at attached picture you might realise why it's a prob
    Attached Images  
    Last edited by TheAlmostInvisibleMan; 28th November 2005 at 14:19.
    smartypartfast.co.uk
    fq101.co.uk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Newcastle Upon- Tyne
    Posts
    154

    Default

    it has only happened three times in the last 3 months.
    They will charge a fortune if i take it to smart.
    What about taking it to see a normal mechanic?

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by leo234
    I have a remap from jonboy. Smart reckon it has something to do with that.
    Thats because IF they can attribute the fault to the remap they don't have to pay.
    sounds like tosh to me.
    go with the airlock plan

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Luxulyan Cornwall
    Posts
    1,179

    Exclamation Temperature's Rising (Like the Prices)

    Hiya Leo,

    OK as said already, you need to check you have NO air locks in the cooling system, the "Smartie" is a strange little beastie with its pipes, as the AIM has shown you in his picture ++ Make sure you have sufficient Anti freeze in the system (This time of year at least 50% mix) you can get a cheap Anti Freeze tester at your local factors or Halfords, if you need extra A/Freeze to make up the coolant, ONLY get a good quality one...not the cheap type, because that stuff can do all sorts of damage to the Aluminium castings. I suppose you could always get this checked at you local Kwik fit or Tyre shop, most can test Anti freeze.

    With the engine cold, remove the filler cap from the expansion tank, make sure the coolant is topped RIGHT TO THE TOP...then remove the engine cover, and on the right of the engine, near to the front of the bay you will see the water pump, you will recognise it by the fact it has a fan belt attached to it, obviously make sure the belt is in tension, and on the top of the water pump you will see a 17 m/m head size bolt with a pipe attached to it, this is the feed to the turbocharger of coolant, undo this bolt about 2 turns, no more, let coolant run from here UNTIL no bubbles of air are left, you will see what I mean when you do the job.

    Re-Tighten the bolt, start engine, set heater on HOT, leave engine idling for 10/15 mins to get warm ++ still leaving top off of expansion tank, make sure you have water returning to the expansion tank via the little pipe at the top right of it....it will be apparent and easy to see, it will bubble back into the tank, this PROVES that the water/coolant is circulating, and if the engine temp still goes thru the roof then the next thing is either the thermostat or the Temp sensor.

    I hope this should cure your problem, if you need any more help you could look here,

    www.mrmrssmart.741.com

    Let us Know how you get on OK
    "Mr and Mrs Smart" With "Twinkle" the Legendry Re-Built & Better Smart~er Car with the "Smile" Factor Built In As Seen on TV!! Come & see us at www.kernowsmart.com

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