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  1. #11

    Default Re: Exhaust manifold crack symptoms

    How difficult is it to remove the turbo and fit it onto a new manifold?
    New manifold https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...JGQ8SPH0&psc=1 for £128.
    Would fitting a roadster TIK be a good idea ?
    Is the metal gasket usually reusable ?
    Thanks
    2003 pure semi auto 87000 miles(Roadster engine? Brabus ECU/SAM/Speedo)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    over here
    Posts
    13,906

    Default Re: Exhaust manifold crack symptoms

    Your main problem will be the possibility of sheared studs & bolts due to corrosion.

    Plenty of penetrating fluid 24 hours beforehand (Multiple times) , but there’ll still always be one
    fq101.co.uk

  3. #13

    Cool Re: Exhaust manifold crack symptoms

    Have removed manifold and separated the turbo . 3 of the studs came out with the nuts attached but nothing sheared .
    Only a small crack visible on the outside of the manifold but there is crack on the inside where the turbo sits.
    Also 2 cracks on the wastegate seat and quite a lot of play in the wastegate spindle.
    Have too keep stopping as it is so hot
    2003 pure semi auto 87000 miles(Roadster engine? Brabus ECU/SAM/Speedo)

  4. #14

    Default Re: Exhaust manifold crack symptoms

    Update-
    No boost now- max 1.5 psi @5000rpm using obd and mobile app.
    Have double checked the pipes for the actuator/cycle valves.
    Refitted the TIK/compressor to intercooler pipe.
    As a test I removed actuator arm and manually moved the wastegate to fully open/closed and tried revving to @3000 but still just getting a vacuum reading .
    Should I be able to get a boost by doing this?
    Also how tight should the V-band that clamps the turbo to the manifold be ?
    Can a manifold be bad so it won't boost?
    Can not hear any blowing noises from manifold area.
    Any ideas please .
    Good news
    I removed the exhaust to make sure the turbo was free to spin and it was.
    Then I felt the wastegate valve in the closed position and it was not closed but had a gap so after some checking of the actuator arm I decided to shorten the arm until the valve was closed.
    I adjusted it so the valve was touching the seat but I could still just move the valve round with my finger.
    Anyway I now have @ 10 psi boost and no jerking when using full throttle under load.
    I will use it like this for a while to make sure it is OK. Maybe a further adjustment of the arm if needed.
    Last edited by peanut; 28th June 2020 at 18:15. Reason: update
    2003 pure semi auto 87000 miles(Roadster engine? Brabus ECU/SAM/Speedo)

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