Exhaust manifold crack symptoms

[peanut]

How difficult is it to remove the turbo and fit it onto a new manifold?
New manifold https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...JGQ8SPH0&psc=1 for £128.
Would fitting a roadster TIK be a good idea ?
Is the metal gasket usually reusable ?
Thanks

[TheAlmostInvisibleMan]

Your main problem will be the possibility of sheared studs & bolts due to corrosion.

Plenty of penetrating fluid 24 hours beforehand (Multiple times) , but there’ll still always be one

[peanut]

Have removed manifold and separated the turbo . 3 of the studs came out with the nuts attached but nothing sheared .
Only a small crack visible on the outside of the manifold but there is crack on the inside where the turbo sits.
Also 2 cracks on the wastegate seat and quite a lot of play in the wastegate spindle.
Have too keep stopping as it is so hot

[peanut]

Update-
No boost now- max 1.5 psi @5000rpm using obd and mobile app.
Have double checked the pipes for the actuator/cycle valves.
Refitted the TIK/compressor to intercooler pipe.
As a test I removed actuator arm and manually moved the wastegate to fully open/closed and tried revving to @3000 but still just getting a vacuum reading .
Should I be able to get a boost by doing this?
Also how tight should the V-band that clamps the turbo to the manifold be ?
Can a manifold be bad so it won't boost?
Can not hear any blowing noises from manifold area.
Any ideas please .
Good news
I removed the exhaust to make sure the turbo was free to spin and it was.
Then I felt the wastegate valve in the closed position and it was not closed but had a gap so after some checking of the actuator arm I decided to shorten the arm until the valve was closed.
I adjusted it so the valve was touching the seat but I could still just move the valve round with my finger.
Anyway I now have @ 10 psi boost and no jerking when using full throttle under load.
I will use it like this for a while to make sure it is OK. Maybe a further adjustment of the arm if needed.