Hereís a final update. Engine all done, back in the car and purring away beautifully. A vast improvement. 😊😊

One tool I can definitely recommend is a little trolley to help get the engine back in. Hereís mine below. Couple of bits of scrap 4x2, some 18mm ply and a set of £7 casters from Amazon.

Getting the engine back in seems to work best if you dress the engine with just about everything. I only left the TIK pipe and exhaust off. With the car high up on stands, push the engine into position then lift with the trolley jack under the wooden trolley (just fits under) then fit the front engine mount using the two bolts to the subframe. Donít try and separate the mount and then push the central bolt through the mount to join the halves it as it will get jammed half in half out. With the mount bolted to the subframe you can put the air con and cooling pipes back and the electrical connectors onto the ?sensor in the air con rigid pipe. Then itís a case of lifting up the engine which will rotate about its front mount and then reconnect the two rear engine mounts. The ready is pretty straight forward.

One easy mistake to make and one to watch for is when you refit the loom. The spade connector to the starter solenoid is easy to mix up with the one that goes to the air con sensor. Both are single spade connectors and both wires are blue. The starter solenoid wire is pin 4 on the 6 way loom connector to the bodywork on the near side. I had to drop the subframe down to discover and fix this particular screw up!! 😡

The new engine parts used were exhaust valves, valve stem oil seals, big ends, rings, thrust washers, timing chain tensioner and plastic guides and oil seals both ends of the crank plus a new sump, exhaust gasket/heat shield and exhaust manifold studs and nuts (all) and head stretch bolts. I fitted a 2nd hand camshaft and timing chain cover. All of the bits came from eBay (jonoconrod) and Andreas Smarts for the 2nd hand parts.

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