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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    2,124

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by peanut View Post
    I have lowered the engine before when I replaced the cam cover gasket to stop a leak.
    Tolson-can you tell me the size of bolts to replace and are they available from Toolstation?Aslo I can remember you recommending a sealant that is better than silicone -what is it?
    Thanks
    Yes, you get good set screws and washers from Soupstation. I used standard M6 socket cap screws in stainless steel like the one you can see in below photo.

    Can't remember actual length but should be easy for you to pull a sump bolt.

    As sealant I used black polyurethane sealant also from Soupstation only about £4 for a 300ml cartridge.

    Good free soup there too.

  2. #12

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    Will this sealant be good to reseal around head gasket?
    Tomato or chicken soup ?
    2002 pure semi auto 64000 miles

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Burnley
    Posts
    670

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    I bought a rubber sump gasket from Evilution and glad I did.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    2,124

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    Polyurethane sealant is resistant to oil and petrol but not so good against heat. Works fine to seal sump and timing chain cover as not too hot. I would not use it on the head.

  5. #15

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    I have seen on another thread removing a part of the head gasket to reinstall the chain cover but I can not remember what was suggested to reseal that area.
    How obvious are the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley as I have not found them yet.
    2002 pure semi auto 64000 miles

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    over here
    Posts
    13,873

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by peanut View Post
    So do you think it is just the tensioner?
    Is it possible to do this without removing the head?
    Thanks for the link.
    Soz, been busy... makes good sense to change the chain whilst you’re at it, for the small cost and big benefits
    fq101.co.uk

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    over here
    Posts
    13,873

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by peanut View Post
    How obvious are the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley as I have not found them yet.
    http://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides...e-smart-engine
    fq101.co.uk

  8. #18

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    So far I have removed the cam cover/alternator belt and can now see how slack the cam chain goes.When it is slack the upper black guide is also loose and can be moved up and down-should this guide move?
    I wanted to check the timing before going any further .Webp.net-resizeimage (3).jpg
    Is this correct for the cam?
    Webp.net-resizeimage (4).jpg
    Is the timeing mark on the pulley slightly to the left of the marker?
    Any suggestions to undo pulley bolt?
    Thanks
    2002 pure semi auto 64000 miles

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    2,124

    Default Re: Cam chain tension/replacement

    Crank shaft pulley bolt removal.
    Counterhold on one of the three M10 bolts that hold flywheel spider to flywheel. Bolt has 17 mm hex head. Remove rubber bung for access.

    Timing cover is sandwiched between sump and head. One of them must therefore come off. I used polyurethane sealant all around timing cover including where it mates against head.

    Your photo shows right timing marks.

    Both plastic chain guides are pinned at one of their ends. There should be no play in them so yours is possibly broken.

    The pins for the chain guides are best pulled out using an M6 threaded bar, suitable short piece of pipe and M6 connector nut. Pipe outer diameter no more than 12.7 mm and bore around 10 mm. The connector nut will spread the load over many threads so nil chance of stripping threads. Pins must be pulled first before removing cover.


    Photo of a rather slack chain that I replaced a few years ago.
    Last edited by tolsen123; 9th September 2018 at 21:22.

  10. #20

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