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  1. #1

    Default High Voltage system - Consult workshop

    Come back 2 weeks on hol and the ED would not unlock. Had to open passenger door manually (after removing neighbours fence panel to get in!)
    Then put a meter on the 12v battery....2.5v
    So, I put the battery on charge for a couple of hours and it started up....however...

    There is a message
    'High voltage system - consult workshop'
    Manual tells me that there is a malfunction in the HV battery (duh), and visit a qualified specialist workshop. (that means I won't see my ED for weeks if I did that)

    Anyone seen this, I assume it's some kind of software reset needed as the car drives fine (took it up the road and back with no issues)
    I've stuck it on charge again and rang the smartmove assitance (local loughton smart did not have a clue), they are going to get back to me but will most likely send out an AA man and he will probably scratch his head and trailer it to Loughton, or am I being pesimistic?


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    over here

    Default Re: High Voltage system - Consult workshop

    Try disconnecting the 12v battery for a minute, then reconnect as cleanly as possible, ie just snap it on and clamp up

    Report back

  3. #3

    Default Re: High Voltage system - Consult workshop

    Did that, The AA guy did not know what to do either. He was trained for this car (apparently), he did confirm it is not a critical error and I would need to get it reset at the dealer (

  4. #4

    Default Re: High Voltage system - Consult workshop

    See my rant under title '12v battery drain'.

    PS: do not dis-connect the battery, this envokes the error and you have to take it to the dealer to fix.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005

    Default Re: High Voltage system - Consult workshop

    Is there any emergency way of starting these ED cars like bump start or roll start?

  6. #6

    Default Re: High Voltage system - Consult workshop

    Now bump starting would be a problem that I'm sure of. Even an auto has problems with jumping.

    But an electric does not work like an internal combustion engine. the 12v system has to turn on the hv system, therefore, you cannot get power to the 12v system via the hv system by rotating the wheels.
    With an internal combustion engine, you rotate the wheels which rotates the engine and forces it to fire.

    Guess the other way is to put 12v into it somewhere, like the 12v socket and that will fire up the hv system. Then you have another problem, the 12v socket goes through an accessory which is only turned on by the ignition.... and that can't turn on without 12v.

    What I have done, (and I suggest you only do this if you know how), and that is to put another 12v socket that is wired to the battery and is live all the time. That is how I monitored the battery state over time and figured out that the battery was screwed. (all 12v here still, not HV...DO NOT TOUCH HV STUFF....ORANGE CABLES ARE A NO NO).
    That said, I simply did not just wire a 12v socket to the battery, I added a filter (to help with any added noise to the audio). I added a fuse (pretty obvious), and I added a device that cuts the power to the socket if it drops below 12v. There's a lot more to the story but I'll stop there.
    Suffice to say, I have two 21v sockets. One comes on with the ignition and anther tucked away that is live all the time and is handy for a few things I use, like a cool bag, battery tester etc...

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